Common Solar System Problems
Your solar system isn't working the way it should — and you want to know why. Here are the most common issues Northern California homeowners face, what causes them, and what to do next.
Why is my solar system not producing?
What You're Seeing
- Monitoring app shows zero or near-zero production
- Your inverter display is blank or dark
- No energy flowing to your home or the grid
- System has been down for days or weeks without you noticing
What's Actually Happening
This is the #1 panic moment for solar homeowners. The most common causes are a tripped breaker, a failed inverter, or a grid outage that your system didn't recover from. In some cases, a firmware update or communication fault between the inverter and monitoring system can also cause a complete production stop.
What to Do
First, check your main electrical panel — is the solar breaker tripped? If so, flip it fully off and back on once. If it trips again immediately, do not reset it again — that indicates a short circuit or ground fault and needs professional diagnosis. If the breaker is fine but the inverter has no lights or a fault indicator, your inverter has likely failed and needs repair or replacement.
My inverter has a red light — what does that mean?
What You're Seeing
- Solid red or flashing red light on inverter
- Error code displayed on inverter screen
- System producing zero power
- Inverter making unusual buzzing or clicking sounds
What's Actually Happening
A red light on your inverter always means a fault condition. On SolarEdge inverters, common codes include 18xB7 (ground fault), 2x19 (arc fault), and 3x4A (isolation fault). Enphase Envoy gateways show red when communication with microinverters is lost. String inverters like SMA or Fronius show red for grid faults, ground faults, or internal component failure.
What to Do
Take a photo of the error code or red light pattern. Do not repeatedly power-cycle the inverter — this can cause additional damage and in some cases creates a safety risk. Write down when you first noticed the red light. Then call us — we can often diagnose the exact fault from the error code and arrive prepared with the right replacement parts.
My Enphase app isn't working — why can't I see my system?
What You're Seeing
- Enlighten app shows 'system offline' or 'no data'
- Envoy gateway LEDs show red or no activity
- Production data is missing for days or weeks
- Can't connect to Envoy locally via IP address
What's Actually Happening
The Enphase Envoy gateway is the bridge between your microinverters and the internet. When it fails, you lose all visibility into your system. Common causes: the Envoy lost its Wi-Fi connection, a power surge damaged the unit, the Envoy's internal cellular modem (if equipped) lost signal, or a firmware update failed and bricked the device.
What to Do
First, check if your home Wi-Fi network changed — new router, new password, or new SSID will disconnect the Envoy. Try reconnecting via the Enphase Installer Toolkit app. If the Envoy won't respond at all, the unit may need replacement. We stock Envoy gateways and can have you back online same-day in most areas.
My Tesla Powerwall won't charge — what's wrong?
What You're Seeing
- Powerwall shows 0% or very low charge and won't increase
- Tesla app shows 'not charging' or 'standby' forever
- Powerwall only charges from grid, not solar
- Battery drains within minutes of an outage
What's Actually Happening
Powerwall charging failures fall into a few categories: the Backup Gateway has lost communication with the Powerwall, the battery's internal BMS (Battery Management System) has tripped a protection fault, a firmware update failed mid-install, or the battery cells have degraded below operational thresholds. In some cases, the Powerwall is fine but the Gateway — which controls when and how it charges — is the actual problem.
What to Do
Check the Tesla app for any error codes or alerts. Look at the Gateway — are the LEDs normal? If your Powerwall is under Tesla's 10-year warranty (most still are), we can document the failure and help you file a warranty claim. For out-of-warranty units, we can often repair the Gateway without replacing the entire battery.
My PG&E bill suddenly increased — is my solar system the problem?
What You're Seeing
- Monthly bills are $50-$200+ higher than same month last year
- Net metering credits dropped significantly
- You're importing more grid power despite similar usage
- Bill shows higher kWh usage but you haven't changed habits
What's Actually Happening
A spiking PG&E bill is often the first sign of a failing solar system — and many homeowners don't connect the dots for months. Your system may be underproducing due to panel degradation, inverter failure, monitoring issues, or physical damage. PG&E rate changes and time-of-use plan shifts can also increase bills, but a sudden spike usually means your solar isn't carrying its weight.
What to Do
Pull your PG&E Green Button data (download it from pge.com) and compare your production data from your monitoring app for the same period. Look for a gap — if your monitoring shows normal production but PG&E shows high import, your system may be producing but not exporting properly. We benchmark your system against expected output for your specific panels, location, and season.
My system stopped working after a power outage — now what?
What You're Seeing
- System was fine before the outage, dead after
- Inverter won't restart or shows error after grid returns
- Breaker in main panel is tripped
- Some but not all components came back online
What's Actually Happening
Power outages and the surges that accompany them are hard on solar equipment. When grid power returns, the voltage spike can damage inverter components, trip breakers, or corrupt firmware. Systems with battery backup may get stuck in 'island mode' and fail to reconnect to the grid. Surge protectors on the AC and DC sides can also be sacrificed during an outage.
What to Do
Check your main panel for tripped breakers first. Check the inverter's AC disconnect (the big switch next to your inverter) — sometimes this gets switched off during outages. If everything appears normal but the inverter won't restart, the internal surge protection or power supply may have been damaged. We can diagnose and repair this — often same-day if it's a common failure mode.
My monitoring app says offline — how do I fix it?
What You're Seeing
- App shows 'offline', 'no data', or last update was days ago
- Can't view real-time or historical production
- Inverter itself appears to be working normally
- Wi-Fi network changed recently
What's Actually Happening
Offline monitoring doesn't necessarily mean your system isn't producing — it means the communication link between your system and the internet is broken. Common causes: Wi-Fi password changed, router replaced, signal too weak (especially for inverters in garages or on exterior walls), cellular modem (3G/4G) was sunset or lost signal, or the communication module hardware failed.
What to Do
Start with the simple fix: try reconnecting to Wi-Fi through your monitoring app or by following the manufacturer's reconnection procedure. If that fails, check if your router sees the inverter/Envoy on the network at all. For cellular-based monitoring (common on older SolarEdge and some Enphase systems), the 3G sunset has knocked many systems offline — those need a communication module upgrade.
My breaker keeps tripping — is my solar system causing it?
What You're Seeing
- Solar breaker in main panel trips repeatedly
- Breaker trips immediately after reset
- Burning smell near electrical panel
- Arc fault or ground fault error on inverter
What's Actually Happening
A repeatedly tripping solar breaker is a serious issue — it means your system is drawing too much current or there's a fault condition. Common causes: damaged wiring (from critters, weather, or age), a failed component creating a short circuit, water intrusion into a junction box or inverter, or an undersized breaker that was incorrectly installed during the original installation.
What to Do
Do NOT keep resetting the breaker. Each reset stresses the breaker and the fault could be creating heat or arcing inside your walls or on your roof. This is a fire safety issue. Turn the breaker off, leave it off, and call us for an emergency inspection. We'll trace the circuit and find the fault — not just reset the breaker and hope it holds.
My optimizer failed — will my whole system go down?
What You're Seeing
- One or two panels showing zero or very low production
- Other panels producing normally
- SolarEdge monitoring shows 'optimizer not communicating'
- System still produces but at reduced output
What's Actually Happening
SolarEdge power optimizers are mounted one per panel (or per two panels on older systems). Each optimizer is exposed to roof-level heat, moisture, and temperature swings — they fail at a higher rate than most homeowners expect. A single failed optimizer typically only affects the panel(s) it's connected to, not the entire system. However, multiple optimizer failures can add up to significant production loss.
What to Do
Don't ignore it just because 'the rest of the system is working.' Each failed optimizer is lost production — and that panel is essentially dead weight. We can pinpoint exactly which optimizer failed using SolarEdge's mapper tool, replace just that unit, and restore the affected panels to full output. No need to replace the whole string.
My microinverter isn't producing — is it dead?
What You're Seeing
- Individual panel shows zero output in Enlighten
- Other panels on the same branch are working fine
- Envoy sees the microinverter but it reports 0W
- No error — the panel just stopped reporting or producing
What's Actually Happening
Enphase microinverters (IQ7, IQ7+, IQ8, IQ8+) are generally reliable but do fail. Heat is the #1 killer — microinverters mounted under panels in hot attics or on south-facing roofs in Northern California summers can cook. Manufacturing defects, water intrusion at the connector, or a failed internal capacitor are also common. The good news: microinverters are modular, so one failure doesn't affect the rest of your array.
What to Do
If your system is under Enphase's 25-year warranty (most IQ7 and newer are), the replacement unit is covered — you only pay labor. We verify the microinverter is actually dead (sometimes it's just a loose connector or communication issue), replace it if needed, and handle the warranty claim paperwork.
Why are my solar panels not producing as much as they used to?
What You're Seeing
- Gradual decline in monthly kWh production
- System is 5+ years old and output is noticeably lower
- Same-season comparison shows year-over-year decline
- No error codes — just less power than before
What's Actually Happening
All solar panels degrade over time — typically 0.5-1% per year. But faster decline suggests a problem: PID (Potential Induced Degradation) is common in older systems and can sap 10-30% of production. Dirt and debris buildup reduces output. Shading from trees that have grown since installation. Or you may have individual panels or optimizers failing that aren't obvious in aggregate monitoring.
What to Do
We can run a production benchmark — comparing your system's actual output against what it should produce based on your panels, inverter, location, and weather data. If the gap is significant, we'll find the cause — whether it's PID, failing components, or something as simple as dirty panels. Most underperformance issues are fixable without a full system replacement.
My system shows it's producing but my meter is spinning forward — why?
What You're Seeing
- Monitoring shows production, but utility meter still shows import
- You're paying PG&E despite solar system appearing to work
- Net metering credits are nearly zero
- Bills don't reflect solar production you can see in your app
What's Actually Happening
This is a frustrating but common issue. The most likely cause: your system is producing energy but your home is consuming it all in real-time (or your battery is soaking it up), so nothing is being exported to the grid. Other possibilities: your CT (current transformer) meters are installed backwards or have failed, giving you false production readings, or your utility meter is configured incorrectly for net metering.
What to Do
We can install independent production and consumption monitoring to verify what's actually happening vs what your app reports. If your CT meters are faulty or misconfigured, we'll correct them. If your system really is underproducing, we'll find the root cause.
How long do solar panels last — and when should I replace vs repair?
What You're Seeing
- System is 10-20+ years old
- Panels show visible degradation (discoloration, delamination)
- Production has declined 20% or more from original
- Repair costs are adding up year after year
What's Actually Happening
Quality solar panels last 25-30+ years, but inverters last 10-15, optimizers 8-12, and batteries 10-15. Most 'system failures' on older installations are actually inverter or wiring failures — the panels themselves are often fine. True panel failure is usually visible: delamination (layers separating), snail trails (dark discoloration lines), or burned cells.
What to Do
Don't let someone sell you a full system replacement without a diagnostic first. We'll tell you honestly what's salvageable and what isn't. In many cases, replacing a 15-year-old inverter and a few faulty optimizers restores an older system to 80-90% of original output for a fraction of the cost of replacement.
I just bought a house with solar — how do I know if it's working?
What You're Seeing
- No documentation from previous owner
- Don't have access to monitoring app or login
- No idea what brand panels or inverter you have
- Unsure if system is owned, leased, or financed
What's Actually Happening
New homeowners often inherit solar systems with zero information. The previous owner may not have transferred monitoring access, the installer may be out of business, or the system may have been installed years ago and never checked. You might be paying for a system that's producing nothing — and you wouldn't know.
What to Do
We offer a new-homeowner solar inspection: we identify every component, check for liens or leases, create monitoring access for you, test production, and give you a complete system report. Takes about 2 hours and you'll know exactly what you have and whether it's working.
Why is my inverter making a loud buzzing or clicking noise?
What You're Seeing
- Buzzing, humming, or clicking sounds from inverter
- Noise is louder than normal operating sound
- Sound changes with production level or time of day
- Neighbors' inverters don't make this noise
What's Actually Happening
All inverters make some noise — cooling fans, internal relays clicking during grid sync, and transformer hum are normal. But loud buzzing or rapid clicking usually means: a failing cooling fan (most common), loose internal components vibrating, an electrical arc starting to form (serious — fire risk), or a relay that's cycling on and off rapidly due to a grid voltage issue.
What to Do
Record the sound on your phone if possible. If the noise is accompanied by a burning smell or the inverter feels hot to the touch, shut the system down at the AC disconnect and call us immediately. For fan noise, we can replace the fan — don't ignore it, because an overheating inverter fails much sooner than one that's properly cooled.
Do my solar panels need cleaning — and does it actually matter?
What You're Seeing
- Visible layer of dust, pollen, or bird droppings on panels
- Production seems lower after fire season or pollen season
- Your panels haven't been cleaned in 2+ years
- Neighbors with clean panels seem to produce more
What's Actually Happening
Yes, dirty panels produce less — typically 5-15% less, but in extreme cases (heavy soot from wildfire season, accumulated bird droppings, or pollen caked on by morning dew) losses can hit 25%. Northern California's wildfire smoke and agricultural dust make panel soiling a real issue here. The good news: rain helps, but it doesn't clean the corners and edges where dirt accumulates worst.
What to Do
Check your production data before and after a good rain — if you see a noticeable bump after rain, your panels were dirty and losing production. We offer professional panel cleaning that won't scratch the glass or void your warranty. Never use a pressure washer, abrasive cleaners, or scrub with anything harder than a soft brush — micro-scratches permanently reduce panel output.
What's actually covered under my solar panel warranty?
What You're Seeing
- System is 8 years old and something failed
- Not sure if you have a product warranty or just a performance warranty
- Installer is out of business and you don't know who to contact
- You filed a claim and it was denied — was that fair?
What's Actually Happening
Solar warranties come in layers. Panels typically have a 25-30 year performance warranty (guarantees ~80-87% output at year 25) and a separate 10-12 year product warranty (covers defects and physical failure). Inverters usually carry 10-12 years (extendable to 20-25 on some brands). Optimizers are 25 years on paper but often prorated. Workmanship warranties from installers are typically 5-10 years — but only good if the installer still exists. Critical: the product warranty is through the manufacturer, not your installer — so even if your installer is gone, the panel and inverter warranties may still be valid.
What to Do
We can look up your equipment's warranty status using the serial numbers. If you're still covered, we'll document the failure in the format the manufacturer requires and handle the RMA (Return Merchandise Authorization) process. You may only pay for labor — the replacement hardware is free. If your claim was denied, we can often get it re-evaluated with proper documentation.
What happens to my solar panels during a blackout — why don't they work?
What You're Seeing
- Power goes out and your solar system shuts off too
- Even on a sunny day, no solar power during an outage
- You expected solar to work during blackouts
- Frustrated that you still lose power despite having solar
What's Actually Happening
This is the most misunderstood thing about solar. Grid-tied solar systems (which is what 95%+ of homes have) are REQUIRED by code to shut down during a blackout. This is called anti-islanding — it protects utility workers from being electrocuted by your solar system feeding power back into lines they think are dead. Without a battery (Tesla Powerwall, Enphase IQ Battery, etc.), your solar CANNOT power your home during an outage — period. Solar + battery systems set up for backup power CAN run during outages, because they disconnect from the grid and form their own mini-grid.
What to Do
If backup power during outages is important to you, we can add battery storage to your existing system. The battery creates an 'island' — disconnecting from the grid during an outage while keeping your home powered from solar + battery. Even a single Powerwall can keep your refrigerator, lights, and internet running through most outages.
Why did my solar production drop during summer when there's more sun?
What You're Seeing
- Production is lower in July/August than in May/June
- System seems worse on the hottest, sunniest days
- Other people say summer is their best production month
- Monitoring shows lower peak output at midday
What's Actually Happening
Counterintuitive but true: solar panels lose efficiency as they get hotter. The temperature coefficient means your panels lose about 0.3-0.5% output for every 1°C above 25°C (77°F). On a 100°F NorCal summer day, your roof can hit 140°F+ and your panels lose 10-15% efficiency compared to a cool spring day. Also, summer haze, wildfire smoke, and higher sun angles can reduce effective irradiance. Spring and fall are often the highest-production seasons in California.
What to Do
Check your daily production curve — if the peak is flattened but the morning and late afternoon look normal, heat derating is likely the cause. Ensure your panels have adequate airflow (at least 4-6 inches of clearance from the roof). If production drop is more than 15-20%, there may be an additional problem beyond heat — schedule a diagnostic to rule out component failure.
Can I add more panels to my existing solar system?
What You're Seeing
- Your energy needs have grown since installation
- You added an EV or heat pump and need more power
- Your current system was undersized from the start
- You want to reach 100% offset but currently fall short
What's Actually Happening
Yes, you can expand most solar systems — but it's not as simple as bolting on more panels. Your existing inverter has a maximum capacity. If you have a SolarEdge string inverter rated for 7.6kW and already have 8kW of panels on it, you're at the limit. Microinverter systems (Enphase) are easier to expand because each panel is independent. You may also need to upgrade your electrical panel if it's near capacity. PG&E interconnection agreements may need to be updated for the new system size.
What to Do
We can assess your current system's capacity, inverter headroom, and electrical panel to determine what's possible. Many systems can add 2-6 panels without major upgrades. For larger expansions, we may recommend a second inverter or an electrical panel upgrade. We handle the PG&E interconnection paperwork.
Are solar panels still worth it with California's NEM 3.0 changes?
What You're Seeing
- You heard NEM 3.0 made solar less valuable
- Considering solar but worried about payback period
- Existing solar owner wondering if your rates changed
- Confused about what NEM 3.0 actually means
What's Actually Happening
NEM 3.0 (Net Billing) took effect April 2023 and significantly reduced the value of solar energy exported to the grid — from retail rates (~$0.25-0.45/kWh) to wholesale/avoided cost rates (~$0.02-0.08/kWh). This means exporting power during the day earns you very little. The new math: self-consuming your solar power is now worth 5-10x more than exporting it. This makes batteries extremely valuable under NEM 3.0 — store your daytime excess and use it during expensive evening hours instead of selling it cheap.
What to Do
If you're on NEM 1.0 or 2.0, your agreement is grandfathered for 20 years from your PTO date — you're protected. If you're considering solar under NEM 3.0, battery storage is essentially mandatory for a good financial return. If you're an existing owner with a failing system, repairing it keeps your grandfathered NEM status — replacing the entire system may trigger a move to NEM 3.0, which we can help you evaluate.
Why does my monitoring data not match my PG&E bill?
What You're Seeing
- Monitoring app shows more production than your bill credits
- PG&E says you imported more than your app says you did
- Numbers don't reconcile — and you don't know which to trust
- You suspect you're being underpaid for your solar exports
What's Actually Happening
Your monitoring system measures production at the inverter (DC side) or at the production meter (AC side). PG&E measures at your utility meter, which sees net flow to/from the grid. Several things cause discrepancies: your home consumes some solar directly before it reaches the meter (good — that's self-consumption), your CT meters may be installed backwards or have failed, or your inverter's production readings include energy that was lost as heat before reaching the meter. A 5-10% discrepancy is normal. Larger gaps suggest a metering or monitoring problem.
What to Do
We can install independent revenue-grade metering to verify what your system is actually producing and exporting. If your monitoring or PG&E meter has a fault, we'll identify it and help you resolve it — including providing documentation for a PG&E meter dispute if needed.
Still Not Sure What's Wrong?
Our $349 diagnostic identifies every issue affecting your system — $249 credited toward any repair. Most diagnostics completed within 48 hours.
Schedule a DiagnosticOr call (707) 912-9107 — we answer the phone.
